Spherical clamping washers

Spherical clamping washers

Helo welcome to Enots engineering I’m Alan today in the workshop we’re making some
spherical washers from some 15mm aluminium bar these washers will be used as part of a clamping device so I can hold parts down on my faceplate or on the milling machine so let’s go into the workshop and see how we do it this is today’s project my brother gave
these to me a few months ago and if your a mechanic you might recognise what they are they hold the fuel injectors onto the
cylinder head and my brother thought these might be useful little clamps to clamp things to the milling machine or a face plate by just putting a bolt through there and using the forks on the end to clamp the part down which I thought was a good idea but the only problem is on the hole you have a spherical Now this is so they will self align on the back of the injector and then there’s a small lip on the end that holds onto the cylinder head and
then if you tighten down it lines itself up with the injector so what we need is a washer with a spherical on so we can put a cap head in through there bolt down and
it will still align itself up this is a quick sketch of the part we’re
making The first job is to face off the bar now I want to make an 8mm hole
as deep as a can through the bar so I have a piece of 15mm bar and
in the end we’ve drilled an 8mm hole and then that’s ready to have a
spherical put on this face so I’ll take my tool post off and change to my radius cutter this is my radius cutter there’s a video on the channel on how I
made this on the bottoms a dovetail that fits in the top slide that swivels on a bearing and you can adjust this tool in and out to the centerline to give you a ball or concaved radius and depending on how far from the centreline you set the tip of the tool that will give you the diameter that you’re
cutting as a sphere and what I want to do here is put a slight radius on there to fit the sphere that’s already been machined in that so first of all I’ll tighten up the dovetail and the only way this will move now is
swing round the pivot line which is in the centre and then with the top slide I can move in and out to centralise it and with the carriage backwards or forwards to get the depth I need adjust these three cap heads and this should now slide in and out and obviously the further out the bigger the diameter and as you get
towards the hole in the middle where the centre of the bearing is the diameter gets smaller measuring from the tip to the pivot point this is not important at the moment because I just want to get a radius to give me a start and then I can go bigger or smaller if I knew what the radius was I could put my 8mm pin in the centre and a gauge block between the pin and the tip of the tool to give me the exact radius but as I don’t know what the radius is I’ll start bigger and then slowly work in now the handle on this is just a piece of bar with an knob on the end and that screws in either side because you could be using the other side on this one it’ll be on this side screws in the hole in the end now normally I’d have my collets on this but I haven’t got a collet this is a 15mm mine go up to 12 so I haven’t got a collet so what I have to watch out is as I get closer then this part could hit more chuck jaws so the first thing I wanted to do is move
the bar in the chuck come out quite a long way so the tool tip will touch the end and the back of the radius cutter is nowhere near the jaws of the chuck because when you’re doing the radius you’ll be looking at this end not noticing this part so first of all I’ll switch it on and just move it in till it touches you can’t see that but I have machined a
radius on the end of this and what I want to do is try to match the radius on the end to the radius in the part I’ll just put some micrometer blue on the end of the part this is in a tube rather than the tin and this is micrometer blue not marking or layout blue two different things the marking blue is okay for say if you’ve got some sheet steel you paint this on and when you scribe
your line you can see the line easier it’s made for marking out to a layout the micrometer blue is like a like a blue grease you put it on the surface you could put a small amount on there and then when you take the part to mate up with it just rub it around rub it over the spherical and you can see its touching on the outside of the spherical and on the part it’s just touching on the
corner So what I’ll do is make a spherical a little smaller and see what happens I think I’ll leave at that you can see on the mating part good contact all the way around the edge Ok I’ve put my parting off tool back in set the distance I want we should be able to part this one off let’s put it back in the chuck take my deburring tool just around the inside and it should have taken the sharp edge
off the edge of the hole fitted my radius cutter back on the end and I’ll just do the next one on this end that’s okay turn the bar round do the other end replace my parting off tool and then I
can part those two off these are the finish washers ready to be used you can see on that spherical hole there this is an inch ball but the washers just fit inside so you can come down there with a
cap head or a nut on top to clap the part well that’s it for today I hope that was useful hope you enjoyed it and we’ll see you next time on Enots engineering

6 thoughts on “Spherical clamping washers”

  1. Nicely made. I would suggest that you get a small box about 3 inches square an put it into the top of your tool box. Make it a habit to put your wrist watch and any rings etc. in it the moment you walk into the shop. Not only the danger of getting your watch caught but strong magnets in a magnetic indicator base or the like probably won't do the innards of your wrist watch much good. After a few weeks you'll use the box without even thinking about it.
    Save the chop sticks from the local Chinese restaurant as they work a treat for catching work you are parting off. Saves mucking around in the chip pan to find your parts.
    I like the way your ball turning attachment has the slot in the tool carrier so that you can easily find the pivot center. Mine is made with a narrower carrier so I can't slot it.. though I probably could put a pin off to the side of the center and use that to set the tool to the desired radius.
    Cheers from NC/USA

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